Murray's People: A collection of essays about fthe fascinating people who settled and developed the Pacific Northwest

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Murray C. Morgan
Henry Warre and Merwin Vavasour, British Spies
Tacoma News Tribune
December 9, 1973

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Copyright, 1973, Murray Morgan
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Henry Warre and Merwin Vavasour, British Spies

spacerAn aborted mission to the Pacific Northwest in 1845 by two British spies has provided us with our most accurate information about the Puget Sound country at the time of the 54-40 or Fight crisis and as a bonus a charming folio of paintings and sketches.
spacer On April 3 of that year Sir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson's Bay Company in North America, was closeted at Number 10 Downing Street with Sir Robert Peel, the British Prime Minister and the Earl of Aberdeen, foreign minister. Sir George, who gloried in the nickname of "Little Emperor" and thought in Napoleonic terms, noted that a dispatch just received by sailing packet from America reported that the new American President, James K. Polk, in his inaugural address had declared that the United States claim to all Oregon, the entire region from the Rockies to the Pacific, from Mexico to Russian America, as "clear and unquestionable."
spacerThe Little Emperor proposed that England send four war ships to the Oregon Country, occupy Cape Disappointment at the north side of the mouth of the Columbia and place artillery on the bluff.
spacerHe proposed using two of the ships to guard the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound while 2,000 Indians and mixed blood auxiliaries trained for service in the Northwest in case of war.
spacerPeel and Aberdeen were inclined to interpret President Polk's tough talk about "all Oregon" as preliminary bluster, the establishment of a bargaining position from which he could afford to make concessions.
spacerThe fifty gun British frigate America was already on her way to the Oregon Country. Though she drew too much water to enter the Columbia River, her presence in the Strait of Juan De Fuca should give pause to Yankee Hawks and comfort to British fur traders.
spacerBut Prime Minister Peel did agree to send a pair of undercover agents west "...to gain a general knowledge of the capabilities of the Oregon territory in a military point of view, in order that we may be enabled to act immediately and with effect in defense of our rights in that quarter, should those rights be infringed by any hostile aggression or encroachment on the part of the United States."
spacerChosen for the mission were Lt Henry J. Warre, aid de camp to the governor of Canada and Lt. M. Vavasour of the Royal Engineers.
spacerThey were instructed to pass themselves off as young gentlemen visiting the west "for the pleasure of field sports and scientific pursuit."
spacerWarre who had considerable talent as a painter took along a sketch pad and water colors.
spacerThe young spies were rushed west from Montreal in a Hudson's Bay Company express canoe. They covered the 2,300 miles to Fort Garry on the Red River in the month. From there they traveled with a fur brigade on horseback.
spacerThe trip to Fort Vancouver on the Columbia took from June 16 to August 12, claiming the lives of 33 of their 60 horses, and convinced them that the idea of supplying a military force by the overland route was, in the words of Warre's report "quite impractical."
spacerHe was deeply impressed with Eastern Washington. "The barrenness of the soil, the total absence of wood and water, completely excludes all hope of its ever being adopted to the wants of men."
spacerDuring their six month stay in the Oregon Country the spies gave a good demonstration of their idea of the wants of man, running up a considerable bill at the Fort Vancouver commissary.
spacerThe expense account submitted along with their spy reports shows they worked hard at their role of young gentlemen of leisure. They purchased several beaver hats of the highest quality ($8.88 each), frock coasts ($26), cloth vests, figured vests, tweed trousers, nail brushes, hair brushes, fancy handkerchiefs, shirts, tobacco, pipes, wines, whiskeys and a quantity of extract of roses.
spacerWherever the sweet smelling spies went in the Oregon country, and their travels took them down the Willamette to the American settlements to the mouth of the Columbia, up the Cowlitz River and across the plains to Puget Sound, down the Strait of Juan De Fuca to the new Hudson's Bay Company post at Victor, Warre sketched and painted.
spacerIndians and settlers and fur traders might occupy the foreground of his pictures, but the back ground often included areas of military importance; the guardian rocks at Camp Disappointment, the defensible defiles on the Columbia, the wooden bastions of Fort Nisqually, and Fort Victoria. And while Warre sketched, Vavasour gathered information about the Indian population and the attitudes of the English and American settlers.

Spies Ignored

spacerHenry Warre and Mervin Vavasour, the British secret agents who visited the Pacific Northwest in the winter of 1845-46 in the guise of young gentlemen seeking amusement, were assigned to assess the military potential of the area.
spacerThey were less than sanguine about the capacity of the Hudson's Bay Company posts to withstand the impact of missiles impelled by energy greater than that released from a bent bow. The buildings at Fort Nisqually, they wrote off as totally incapable of defense, those at Fort Vancouver as "poorly located," and at Cowlitz Farms the only structure they considered of any military worth was the Catholic church and it "...was in want of loopholes."
spacerWhile they deplored the state of British fortifications, the spies were even more alarmed by the rising tide of American immigration. Whereas British movement across North America still was along the canoe routes of the Hudson's Bay Company beaver trade, the Americans had found, far to the south, passes through which they could roll wheelers. The covered wagon caravans were moving through the Rockies, bringing to the Oregon country not ragged individualists dropping out of the fur business but ready made farm families looking for land.
spacerWarre and Vavasour foresaw the danger to British interest in the Americans' westward movement though they did not state them as vividly as an American Congressman who, in an address to the House declared that the United States should neither fight Britain for possession of Oregon, nor agree to a diplomatic settlement, but rely on time and sex. "We will win the contest for Oregon in our bedrooms. We will outbreed them."
spacerWhile not mentioning the fecundity of the young American families moving west, the British agents noted their numbers. Already the Americans had taken up most of the Willamette Valley and were beginning to stake out claims along the Columbia and even on Puget Sound from which the Hudson's Bay Company had managed until 1845 to exclude them by denying supplies from the post at Nisqually.
spacer"Till the year 1842-43, not more than thirty American families were resident in the country," Warre wrote in his secret report. "In 1843 an emigration of about one thousand persons with a large number of wagons, horses, cattle, etc., arrived on the Willamette having traversed the vast desert section of the country between the Missouri, the Rocky Mountains and the Columbia...
spacer"The American immigrants have as yet confined themselves principally to the valley of the Willamette which has by far the richest soil and finest land in the whole country. The cultivable part of it, however, cannot be said to extend more than sixty to eighty miles in length, and fifteen or twenty miles in breadth. Nearly all the Prairie land is now taken up, and the Immigrants are too indolent to clear the woods.
spacer"They are consequently forming new settlements on the banks of the Columbia at the mouth of the same river and on the beautiful but not very rich plains to the north, in the neighborhood of Nisqually and Puget's Sound.
spacerThe mention of Puget Sound was the first reference by the spies to the arrival at Tumwater of a party led by Michel Troutman Simmons, a wagon train colonel, and George Washington Bush, a black pioneer. They were the first Americans, other than missionaries to settle north of the Columbia.
spacerIn the final spying mission along the Wallamette at the end of their six month stay, Warre and Vavasour found "...the village at the falls (Oregon City) much improved in appearance, many buildings having been erected and the trees, etc. cleared from the adjacent heights."
spacerThey recommended that if war came, the community be occupied by British troops. "A small force could overawe the present American population and obtain any quantity of cattle to supply the troops in other parts of the country."
spacerThe agents noted too, that "since the summer a village called Portland has been commenced between the Falls and Lenton." Lenton was Linnton, the town founded by Morton Matthew McCarver, who later helped promote Tacoma.
spacerThe spies, both engineering officers, proved better judges of townsites than the professional boomer. "The situation of Portland is superior to that of Lenton," they said flatly, "and the back country of easier access."
spacerIn the Spring of 1846 Warre and Vavasour returned to Montreal, from where their report was forwarded to England. It arrived too late to influence the officials who had commissioned it. Prime Minister Robert Peel had already decided to yield the area between the Columbia and the 49th parallel to the Americans.
spacerThe Warre and Vavasour spy reports gather dust in the Public Records office in London.
spacerWarre did find some use for his sketches. He wrote a book "Sketch of a Journey Across the Continent of North America from Canada to the Oregon Territory and the Pacific Ocean." He illustrated it with many pictures, but made no mention that they had been done while he was spying.

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